Camino Ignaciano: Arantzazu (Day 3)

Day 3: Arantzazu
Stage 2 of the Camino

We moved on to Arantzazu, where half the group stayed and where we were to begin our Stage 2 walk. The Sanctuary of Arantzazu figured prominently in the life of St Ignatius, as it was the place where he made a vow of chastity to Our Lady.

Upon arrival, I was stunned by the facade of the church. It was an imposing stone tower built at the edge of a cliff, designed with massive spiky boulders on its walls. Huge stone sculptures of the Apostles, made of bold strokes and very avant-garde in style, also adorned its front facade. Inside, the church looked like a dome. It was dark, solemn and quiet. By contrast, the Lady of Arantzazu, perched high above the altar, was a tiny figure looking delicate and frail in the midst of all the enormity. Legend says that the Virgin Mary appeared to a shepherd in this place, amidst the hawthorn bushes. The shepherd remarked, "arantzan zu?" meaning, "you, on a hawthorn?" Hence, the name of this place. 

The Sanctuary of Arantzazu with its modern design

From the church, we proceeded to the national park named Aizkorri-Aratz Natural Park. I loved it. The first 4 km going uphill was surprisingly lovely and manageable for me, despite our guide's warning that it was the most difficult leg of this Camino. The crisp mountain air surrounds you once you step on its soil. The trail itself was shaded, making for a cool walk. Flowers and butterflies, sometimes horses too, accompany your journey uphill. From time to time, as you climb upward, you get a glimpse of the vast mountain range of Aizkorri, complete with windmills on the farthest mountain. 

Yes, the last kilometer before reaching the top was steep. The trail became narrower and at times looked untrodden. But there were several locals on the trail too. They greeted us 'Buenos Diaz' with big smiles and at times encouraged us, claiming that 'we're nearly there' in their animated Spanish. 

At the top was a magical landscape. It looked like a scene from Lord of the Rings. I can't explain it. The mountains seemed magical. The limestone rocks grew out of nowhere. And there were beech and white oak trees all around, majestic in their splendor. 

A magical scene (at least for me) at the top! Rock formations at the top of a mountain! 

Funny, but there was also a restaurant at the top, with nice wooden picnic tables for an al fresco lunch. Our group slowly gathered there, drinking coffee and eating chorizo sandwiches while taking in the beauty around us. 

The journey downhill was not as strenuous. It was a wide open path with gentle slopes. Here, the views were different. There were sheep -- with straight wool! -- grazing around, and horses wearing cowbells. From time to time, a farmhouse would appear. It had a more countryside feel, which I found surprising considering that we were still up in the mountains. 

 

Sheep! They came with bells dangling from their necks!

All in all, it was a good day and a wonderful trek! I enjoyed every minute of it! The mountains carried with them a certain energy, and I felt so much in touch with nature while I was there. It's as if I went back in time to a period where there were no cities, no pollution and no factories. Just the beauty and wonder of Mother Nature! 

A horse grazes peacefully at the top, unperturbed by us tourists busy snapping away photos.