Jiu Fen Series: Jiu Fen Old Street Discoveries

My trip to Jiu Fen was on a rainy Saturday. I left Taipei at 10 am and arrived there about an hour later. A fine drizzle met me as I stepped off the bus. But still, I loved the cool mountain air and the smell of delicious food wafting in the air.

Jiu Fen's Old Street (九分老街) has so much old town charm. It's actually composed of two long cobblestoned alleys, with quirky shops, Taiwanese restaurants and traditional teahouses lining up on each side.  Although it's just two streets, I spent the entire afternoon there since there was so much to absorb. Unlike the usual tourist spots where each stall is selling the same set of souvenirs or food, in Jiu Fen, you can find unique shops selling their own crafts or produce. The shopkeepers and owners are also very friendly and eager to share their stories.

There's so much food to sample in Jiu Fen, it would make a foodie happy. But for this post, I won't delve into food too much. I was too full during my trip to eat a lot. Instead, I had a few discoveries which amazed me that I'd like to share.

Discovery # 1 -- Ocarinas!

This shop caught my eye since I love ceramic and pottery. At the entrance, the owner was busy painting cute little figures of ducks, cats and even turtles. These were made from pottery and would later become ocarinas or "ceramic/pottery flutes" (陶笛). It was my first time to see such musical instruments and the owner further amazed me by playing different songs on his little "cat" flute.
 

The owner playing the Titanic theme out of a cat!

The ocarina is a wind instrument with four to twelve finger holes and a mouthpiece. It is traditionally made of clay or ceramic. In this shop, the ocarinas were of all shapes and sizes. There were animals such as swans, dogs, owls and turtles. There were guitars, cars and even baby bottles! It was a perfect gift item for my nieces. I bought two animals (their favorites: turtle and duck) and got myself one too.


Adorable Ocarinas!
 
Each purchase came with a little songbook that taught you how to come up with the different musical notes. There were also some simple songs in the book which you can use to practice. The owner is only too happy to teach you how to play.
 
Heck, even if you don't learn how to play the ocarina, it does well as a decorative item on your desk too! Though this one was too big to bring home...
 
Music, anyone?
 
Discovery # 2 - Flower Tea!

Moving along Old Street, there were so many different food items on sale. I stopped at a little shop which was mostly bare inside, but displayed pink packets of dried fruits and flowers at the entrance. The old lady manning the store invited me closer and explained to me that these were flower tea (花茶).

Unlike the usual tea shops which sold tea leaves, their store carried dried flowers and fruits. Their ingredients are mostly organically grown by their family (extended family included). Flowers like rose, jasmine and lavender are planted, picked, dried and packed in individual plastic bags. She showed me which combinations of fruits and flowers worked best and what their health benefits were. They also sold some packs where ingredients were already pre-selected and mixed together.


Roses and jasmine
My favorite combination? Rose and blueberries with a pinch of sugar, served cold! The aroma that the roses give off is so delightful. I wonder why real roses don't smell as good!

Discovery # 3 - Ginger Tea!

Is it obvious that I like tea? :)

Near the entrance of Old Street, several shops display huge square blocks of brown stuff. I later learned that these were ginger tea with brown sugar. I bought some which have been cut to matchbox size and tried them at home. Boy, did they use real old ginger, the type that tastes really strong and sends heat running through your body! It was great for those stormy and cold nights in Taipei.

Discovery # 4 - Even dogs like Grandma's Taro Balls!

I took a break and ate at the famous Grandma Lai's Taro Balls. The line was long, but it moved quickly. Once you get your order, you can take a seat inside their restaurant. The design of the restaurant was very minimalist and environmental. The walls were bare huge boulders -- it seemed that the room was carved into the side of the mountain. The floor was plain gray cement. Red Chinese lanterns hung from the ceiling, providing light and a dash of color. The furniture adds the charm, with huge blocks of wood as tables and tree stumps as chairs.

The dessert was nice and refreshing, but for me, it was nothing spectacular. I found more amusement watching the different people inside the shop. See this dog who stole a few licks from his owner's bowl when she wasn't watching.

Looking with intensity at his next target :)

What I'd like to do in Jiu Fen on my next visit?

1. Spend a lazy afternoon in one of the teahouses overlooking the mountains , reading a good book and sipping jasmine tea

2. Stay in one of the cozy and quaint bed-and-breakfast places and see the night view of Jiu Fen

3. Food trip -- Eat from the start of Old Street to the very end!

4. Hold hands while walking up the many, many stairs of Jiu Fen

5. Get a lesson or two from the owner on how to play my ocarina. I tried it a few times and I think I can get the hang of it. :)








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